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The small, lively market town of SOPPONG , 68km from Mae Hong Son, gives access to the area's most famous cave, Tham Lot, 9km north in BAN TUM (or Ban Tham). There's no public transport along the paved road to the village, so without a motorbike, you'll have to hitch, walk or rent a motorbike taxi (B50). Turn right in the village for the entrance to the Forestry National Park, where you can hire a guide for B100. A short walk through the forest brings you to the entrance of Tham Lot, where the Lang River begins a 600-metre subterranean journey through the cave, requiring you to wade across the flow half a dozen times, or hire a bamboo raft (B100 per group of one to five). Two hours should allow you enough time for travelling through the broad, airy tunnel, and for climbing up to see the enormous stalagmites and other weird formations in the sweaty caverns in the roof. The hillside bungalows at Cave Lodge (under $5), on the other side of Ban Tum from the cave, make an excellent base for exploring the area. The owners also organize kayak tours through Tham Lot when the water levels are high enough. On the main road at the western end of Soppong, the huts at Jungle Guesthouse (tel 053/617099; under $5) are the most popular in town. A short walk east of Soppong's bus stop, Lemonhill Guesthouse (tel 053/617039; $5-10) has chalets in a pretty garden sloping down to the Lang River. All guesthouses give advice on local hikes.
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