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There's nothing special to do in PAI , 43km from Soppong, but the atmosphere is relaxing, the guesthouses pleasant and it's a good place for undemanding valley walks and for trekking to Karen, Lisu and Lahu villages, which can be arranged through the guesthouses (B400 per day). The five-day trek to Mae Hong Son is impressive but quite hard. You can arrange an elephant ride at 5/3 Thanon Rungsiyanon (B400 for two people for 90min) or, from July to the end of January, a two-day rubber-raft trip (B1800) at Thai Adventure Rafting on Thanon Rungsiyanon (tel 053/699111). The small town's traditional buildings spread themselves liberally over the west bank of the Pai River, but everything's still within walking range of the bus station at the north end, where buses from Chiang Mai terminate. The most reliable place to rent motorbikes is Nop's Bike Shop, by Rim Nam Restaurant at 60/3 Thanon Ratchadumrong (tel 053/699093); Duang Guesthouse, oposite the bus station, has plenty of mountain bikes (B50). On the river bank east of the bus station, Golden Hut (tel 053/699024; under $5) has simple rooms and huts in a quiet spot around a vegetable plot. Mr Jan's on Thanon Sukhaphibun 3 (under $5), one of a mess of small streets behind and to the east of Thanon Rungsiyanon, the main street running south from the bus station, offers simple bamboo bungalows and pricier concrete rooms; good massages (B150/hour) and saunas (B50) are available. In a beautiful setting by the river to the east of the bus station, the log cabins at Rim Pai Cottage, 17 Moo 3, Viang Tai (tel 053/699133; $5-15) are as posh as Pai gets. Peter & Vandee's Huts (B80), 2km east out of town over the bridge, has bamboo huts amongst fruit trees and runs two-, three- and five-day cookery classes (B500/B700/B1000). Best of the travellers' restaurants is Thai Yai at 12 Thanon Rungsiyanon (Mon-Sat 7.30am-9.30pm, Sun 7.30am-noon). At night, travellers congregate at Be-Bop, a small, laid-back bar which hosts live music.
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