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North of Mae Hong Son, a trip to Pha Sua Falls and the border village of Mae Aw takes in some spectacular and varied countryside, best visited by motorbike or on a Thai Yai tour . Head north for 17km on Highway 1095 (ignore the first signpost for Pha Sua, after 10km) and then, after a long, steep descent, turn left onto a side road, paved at first, which passes through the village of Ban Bok Shampae. About 9km from the turn-off you'll reach Pha Sua Falls; take care when swimming, as several people have been swept to their deaths here. Above the falls, the paved road climbs 11km to the village of Naphapak, then it's another 7km to MAE AW (aka Ban Ruk Thai), a Burmese border settlement of Kuomintang anti-communist Chinese refugees. It's the highest point on the border which visitors can reach, and provides a fascinating window on Kuomintang life. Bright-green tea bushes line the slopes and Chinese ponies wander the streets of long bamboo houses. In the marketplace on the north side of the village reservoir, shops sell Oolong and Chian Chian tea, and dried mushrooms.
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