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Opium growing has been illegal in Thailand since 1959, but during the 1960s and 1970s, rampant production and refining of the crop in the lawless region on the borders of Thailand, Burma and Laos earned the area the nickname the Golden Triangle . Two "armies" have traditionally operated most of the trade within this area: the Shan United Army from Burma, which is led by the notorious warlord Khun Sa, and the Kuomintang (KMT) refugees from communist China. The Thai government's concerted attempt to eliminate opium growing within its borders has succeeded in reducing the size of the crop to under twenty tonnes per year, but Thailand still has a vital role to play as a conduit for heroin; most of the production and refinement of opium has simply moved over the borders into Burma and Laos. For the benefit of tourists, "the Golden Triangle" has now been artificially concentrated into the precise spot where the borders meet, at the confluence of the Ruak and Mekong rivers, 57km northeast of Chiang Rai: SOP RUAK . Don't expect to run into sinister drug-runners, addicts or even poppy-fields here - instead you'll find souvenir stalls and a huge "Golden Triangle" sign. The green-roofed Opium Museum in the centre of town (daily 7am-6pm; B20) is unexpectedly worthwhile, and displays all the paraphernalia of opium growing and smoking. For uninterrupted views of the meeting of the rivers and the lands of Burma and Laos beyond, climb up to Wat Phra That Phu Khao , a 1200-year-old temple perched on a small hill above the village. To get to Sop Ruak you'll have to go via Chiang Saen or Mae Sai first. From Chiang Saen you can go by regular songthaew (departing from in front of the school on the west side of the T-junction), rented bicycle (an easy 14-km ride on a paved road) or longtail boat up the Mekong (B600 round trip). From Mae Sai, songthaews make the 45-minute trip from the side of the Sri Wattana Hotel on Thanon Phaholyothin.
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