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Off nearly all beaten tracks, AO THIAN enjoys a lovely setting and is only ten minutes' walk from Wong Deuan. At the northern end, Candlelight Beach (tel 01/218 6934; $10-20) has a dozen or so basic and rather dilapidated huts, as well as some newer, solid en-suite bungalows. Right down at the other end of the beach is the much more romantic Lung Dum Hut (tel 01/452 9472; $5-10), whose thirty simple bungalows are all slightly different, the best built right on the rocks; electricity is only available in the evenings. Though there are occasional direct boats from Ban Phe to Ao Thian, it's easier to go via Na Dan, from where you should get a songthaew to Wong Deuan and then walk.
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