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Separated from Hat Sai Kaew by a low promontory on which sits a mermaid statue, AO HIN KOK is much smaller and has only three bungalow outfits. The friendly and very popular Naga (tel 01/218 5732; under $5) offers simple huts; Tok's Little Hut (under $10) and Jep's Inn ($5-15) both offer slightly more comfortable bungalows. Ao Hin Kok is particularly strong on food: Naga has top veggie dishes, home-made bread and cakes, while Jep's Inn serves up fine seafood and travellers' fare on the beach. Songthaews from Na Dan cost B20, or you can walk here in about fifteen minutes. Ko Samet post office is run out of Naga Bungalows and offers a phone and fax service, internet access and poste restante; letters are kept for three months and should be addressed c/o Poste Restante, Ko Samet Post Office, Naga Bungalows, Ko Samet.

Beach life gets a little more active around the next collection of rocks on the narrow but pleasant enough AO PHAI , with an outdoor bar and weekend

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disco. Ao Phai Hut (tel 01/353 2644; $5-15) occupies a lovely position on the rocky divide between Ao Phai and Hin Kok, and offers good en-suite huts, some with air con. Sea Breeze (tel 01/218 6397; under $15) has cheap huts with shared facilities, and pricier en-suite ones with air-con. They sell boat trips and minibus tickets, rent out windsurfing equipment, and have phone and exchange facilities. Songthaews from Na Dan cost B20 to Ao Phai, or you can walk it in twenty minutes.


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