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The focal point of a national marine park archipelago of 52 islands, KO CHANG is Thailand's second-largest island (after Phuket) and a popular backpackers' destination. During peak season, accommodation on the west coast tends to fill up very quickly - and things go mad on national holidays - but it gets a lot quieter (and cheaper) from May to October, when fierce storms batter the flimsier huts and can make the sea too rough to swim in. A wide road runs almost all the way round the island, served by fairly frequent public songthaews; you can also rent motorbikes and mountain bikes on most beaches, and should be able to arrange a motorbike taxi from the same places. There are money-exchange facilities and small shops at Hat Sai Kaew and Hat Kai Bae. Though mosquitoes don't seem to be much in evidence, Ko Chang is one of the few areas of Thailand that's still considered to be malarial, so you may want to start taking your prophylactics before you get here, and bring repellent with you. Ko Chang businesses use radio phones, so the code is 01 wherever you call from. The most convenient boats to Ko Chang depart from Laem Ngop and arrive at either Ao Saparot or, occasionally, at Tha Dan Mai, both on the island's northeast coast. From both points songthaews ferry passengers on to the main beaches. There are six boats a day from Laem Ngop (45min), which, weather permitting, follow the same timetable throughout the year, departing at 9am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm. From November to April there's also one boat a day (3pm) direct to White Sand Beach Resort at Hat Sai Kaew. Tickets cost B80 which includes the songthaew ride to the beach of your choice. It's possible to do the whole Bangkok-to-Ko Chang trip in a day by catching the 8.30am air-con bus from the Eastern Bus Terminal. Tourist minibuses run from Thanon Khao San through to Laem Ngop (6hr) for B250 (B500 return).
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