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From Ban Pak Meng, 40km due west of Trang town, to the mouth of the Trang River runs a thirty-kilometre stretch of gorgeous beaches, best explored by car or motorbike. The beach at PAK MENG is typical of the area, a long, gently curving strip strewn with small shells. Air-con minibuses make the one-hour trip here every half hour from Trang's Thanon Tha Klang, the northwesterly continuation of Thanon Ratchadamnoen. Food stalls line the back of the beach. Of all the Trang islands, KO HAI (aka Ko Ngai), 16km southwest of Pak Meng, offers the best combination of accommodation and scenery. From November to May, boats leave Pak Meng at 11am and noon (1hr; B100). The long white-sand beach on the east coast is pretty and ideal for swimming. The huts and bungalows of Ko Hai Resort (tel 075/211045; Trang office at Tha 112 Rama VI; tel 075/210496; Bangkok reservations tel 02/246 4399; $5-60) occupy a sandy cove by the island's jetty. KO MOOK , about 8km southeast of Ko Hai, is known for Tham Morakhot, the beautiful "Emerald Cave" on the west coast, which can only be reached by boat. At low tide, boats can sail into the cave - at other times it's a short swim - to emerge at an inland beach at the base of a natural chimney whose walls are coated with dripping vegetation. Farang Beach, south of Tham Morakhot and a thirty-minute walk from the island village, is the best strip of sand, good for swimming and snorkelling. On this coast just north of the village, Ko Mook Resort (tel 075/212613; Trang office at Stone Graphic, 45 Thanon Rama VI, tel 075/222296; $5-10) has the least expensive bungalows on the Trang islands (fans, mosquito screens and shared bathrooms). The resort's office in Trang has Internet facilities and can arrange transport by car and boat (B130), or longtails can be chartered at Pak Meng (B400).
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