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The beautiful watery landscape of Thale Noi Waterbird Park is rich in exotic birds and vegetation and best seen by longtail boat; boats can be hired for about B300 at the pier in Ban Thale Noi for two-hour trips. This bizarre freshwater habitat at the head of the huge lagoon that spills into the sea at Songkhla is dotted with marshy islands, lotus pads and reeds, all of which appeal to the hundreds of thousands of birds which breed here - brown teals, loping purple herons, white cattle egrets, and nearly two hundred other species. Most are migratory, so March and April are the best spotting months, particularly early morning and late evening. Easiest access is via PHATTHALUNG , a hot, dusty town halfway between Nakhon Si Thammarat and Hat Yai, where you can stay at the clean and friendly Thai Hotel, at 14 Thanon Disara Sakarin, behind the Bangkok Bank on Thanon Ramet (tel 074/611636; under $10). Songthaews depart from Thanon Nivas, which runs north off Thanon Ramet near the station, to BAN THALE NOI (1hr), the village on the western bank of the lagoon. If you want to get a dawn start, ask in the village souvenir shops about renting a room (under $5). Coming from Nakhon or points further north by bus, you can save yourself a trip into Phatthalung by getting out at Ban Chai Khlong, 15km from Ban Thale Noi, and waiting for a songthaew there.
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