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The small, sophisticated former trading port of SONGKHLA makes a much pleasanter alternative to Hat Yai, 25 km away. It retains many historic buildings, including the graceful Chinese mansion which now houses the Songkhla National Museum (Wed-Sun 9am-4pm; B30) - it's on Thanon Jana, the main east-west street, and contains a jumble of folk exhibits, Ban Chiang pottery, Hindu and Buddhist statues. From the museum, you can explore the atmospheric old streets of Nakhon Nai and Nakhon Nawk on your way south to Wat Matchimawat , a grand affair set in ornamental grounds on Thanon Saiburi. Every centimetre of its interior is covered with murals, telling of the previous lives of the Buddha, mixed in with vivacious tableaux of nineteenth-century Songkhla life. Buses from Hat Yai and other main towns arrive at the major junction of Thanon Ramwithi with Jana and Platha roads. Share taxis congregate on the south side of the main bus stop, just off Thanon Ramwithi. Narai, at 14 Thanon Chai Khao (tel 074/311078; under $5), is Songkhla's bottom-end hotel , situated in a quiet wooden house at the foot of Doi Tung Kuan. A good alternative is the new Abritus Guesthouse, 28/16 Thanon Ramwithi (tel 074/326047; $5-10), which has large, clean rooms and Thai and Western food. Also excellent value is the easygoing Amsterdam Guesthouse, at 15/3 Thanon Rong Muang on the north side of the museum (tel 074/314890; $5-10). Songkhla's most famous restaurant , Raan Tae, at 85 Thanon Nang Ngarm, is justly popular, serving especially good seafood - but it closes at 8pm. The night market sets up south of the post office on Thanon Nakhon Nai. A ghetto of westernized bars and restaurants on Saket, Sisuda and Sadao roads caters to workers from the offshore oil rigs. You can treat yourself to ice cream or milkshakes while surfing the net at E milk Internet Cafe (11am-9.30pm), at 72 Thanon Saiburi.
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