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Even if you don't fancy joining a trek, it's worth considering making the spectacular trip 160km or so south from Mae Sot to the village of UMPANG , both for the stunning mountain scenery and for the buzz of being in such an isolated part of Thailand. Songthaews leave Mae Sot from a spot one block south of Thanon Prasat Vithi (hourly 7.30am-5.30pm). The drive can take anything from three and a half to five hours and the road - dubbed the "Sky Highway" - careers round the edges of endless steep-sided valleys. Umpang is effectively a dead end, so you need to return to Mae Sot to continue anywhere else; songthaews leave hourly throughout the day. Surrounded by mountains and sited at the confluence of the Mae Khlong and Umpang rivers, Umpang itself is small and sleepy. It has no signed roads, but the two main points of orientation are the river at the far southern end of the village, and the wat - about 500m north of the river - that marks its centre. Most of the shops and restaurants are clustered along the two roads that run parallel to the wat. There's a knot of guesthouses by the river at the southern end of the village
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