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NAKHON PATHOM , 56km west of Bangkok, is probably Thailand's oldest town and is thought to be the point at which Buddhism first entered the region, when, over two thousand years ago, it was visited by two Indian missionaries. Although the Buddha never actually came to Thailand, legend has it that he rested in Nakhon Pathom, and the original Indian-style (inverted bowl-shaped) Phra Pathom Chedi may have been erected to commemorate this. The chedi (stupa) was rebuilt with a Khmer prang (tower) between the eighth and twelfth centuries, which was later encased in the enormous new plunger-shaped chedi that exists today. At 120m high, it stands as tall as St Paul's Cathedral in London. The inner and outer chambers at the cardinal points each contains a tableau of the life of the Buddha. There are two museums within the chedi compound, both called Phra Pathom Museum. The newer one is clearly signposted from the bottom of the chedi's south staircase (Wed-Sun 9am-noon & 1-4pm; B30) and displays historical artefacts excavated nearby. The other collection, which is halfway up the east steps (Wed-Sun 9am-noon & 1-4pm; free), contains curios. Arriving at Nakhon Pathom's train station , a five-minute walk south across the khlong and through the market will get you to the chedi. Buses from Bangkok, Damnoen Saduak and Kanchanaburi terminate 1km east of the town centre, but most circle the chedi first. The town's quietest budget hotel is Mitrsampant Hotel (tel 034/242422; $5-10), opposite the west gate of the chedi compound at the Lang Phra/Rajdamnoen intersection. For inexpensive Thai and Chinese food head for either Thai Food or Hasang, just south across the khlong from the train station, on the left. Night-time food stalls set up next to the Muang Thong Hotel. You can change money at the exchange booth (banking hours) between the train station and the chedi. If you're just stopping off for a few hours, you can leave your luggage in the controller's office at the train station.
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