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The big heart-shaped island of Panay has been largely bypassed by tourism, perhaps because everyone seems to get sucked inexorably towards Boracay off its northern tip instead. Panay comprises four provinces, Antique on the west coast, Aklan in the north, Capiz in the northeast and Iloilo (eel-o-eel-o) running along the east coast to the capital of Iloilo Province, Iloilo City in the south. The province that interests most tourists is Aklan , whose capital Kalibo is the site of the big and brash Ati-Atihan Festival , held every second week of January. Revellers blacken their faces in imitation of their aboriginal forefathers and stage a shuffling dance in the streets amid cries of "hala, bira!" ("go on and fight!"). Most tourists choose to get to Panay by flying from Manila to Kalibo airport. If you have more time on your hands you might choose to take a plane or ferry to Iloilo and there work your way either along the east or west coast by jeepney and bus, though the roads are in poor condition and you should be prepared for delays and some sub-standard accommodation. Antique is a bucolic province of beaches and precipitous cordillera mountains, while the northeast coast from Concepcion to Batad offers access by banca to a number of unspoilt islands, including the conspicuous Pan de Azucar (Sugar Loaf). The largest of these islands is Sicogon , which measures only 11 square kilometres, fringed by white sandy beaches and home to monkeys, wild pigs and eagles. Most of these islands have few places to stay, so if you want to spend the night take a sleeping bag, water and food. From Iloilo City to Concepcion takes three to four hours by Ceres Liner Bus. You can continue onwards through the city of Roxas , capital of Capiz and birthplace of former president Manuel Roxas, then to Kalibo and Boracay.
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