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The impressive man-made Lake Caliraya is 3050m above sea level and cooler year round than Manila by about eight degrees. The lake can be easily reached by jeepney from the centre of Pagsanjan town (every half hour or when the jeepney is full; P20). The area affords impressive views of Laguna de Bay and nearby Mount Banahaw , while on the lake you can hire jet-skis, water skis, kayaks and windsurfers. Pagsanjan Falls are only a few minutes away and the neighbouring town of Lumban is famous for its beautiful embroidered barongs, the traditional Filipino dress shirt. The villagers of Paete sell intricate wood carvings and colourful papier-mache masks and sculptures. There are a few pensions and guesthouses in the Caliraya area, but the most popular place to stay - and the biggest - is the Lake Caliraya Re-Creation Center (tel 0912/306 0667 or 02/810 9557 in Manila) in Barangay Lewin, Lumban. This is a Christian resort offering "physical, emotional and spiritual recreation". You don't have to be a practising Christian to stay here, but if you are, you can join Bible study and devotional sessions. Cigarettes and alcoholic drinks are not allowed, but to help you take your mind off the unavailability of San Miguel beer there are tennis courts, basketball courts, horseback riding and an obstacle course. P1900 will get you a superior air-con room big enough for four people. Meals cost P95 for breakfast, P135 for lunch and P150 for dinner. Children below 11 years pay half and children below 5 are free. Access to the Lake Caliraya Re-Creation Center is from Pagsanjan. Pass through the Pagsanjan Archway and turn left to Lumban, then 500m past Lumban Bridge take the road to your right that goes up the hill to Caliraya Lake. Jeepneys from Pagsanjan go to Caliraya every half hour or when they are full (P20).
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