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The perfectly smooth cone of Mayon Volcano (2421m) in Albay province makes it look deceptively benign from a distance, but don't be deceived. Mayon is a devil is disguise and has claimed the lives of a number of climbers in recent years. It is the most active volcano in the country and has erupted more than thirty times since 1616, the date of its first recorded eruption. Recent eruptions occurred in 1984 and 1993, and as recently as the beginning of 2000 it was blowing steam from its crater. It's no wonder the locals spin fearful stories around it. The most popular legend says Mayon was formed when a beautiful native princess eloped with a brave warrior. Her uncle, Magayon, was so possessive of his niece that he chased the young couple, who prayed to the gods for help. Suddenly a landslide buried the raging uncle alive, but he is said to still be inside the volcano, his anger sometimes bursting forth in the form of eruptions. One of the greatest perils of climbing Mayon Volcano is that its slopes are not as silky smooth as they look from a few miles away. You have to work your way slowly through forest, grassland and deserts of rock sand boulders before you reach the summit. A number of accidents on these slopes have been caused by rock avalanches. The safest approach is from the northwestern slope, which starts at 762m above sea level on a ledge where the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology (PHIVOLCS) research station and the Mayon Resthouse are located. You'll need to register at PHIVOLCS. Mayon Resthouse is a simple place with dorm beds for P200-300 a night and some rudimentary cooking facilities. Make sure you bring your own food, as the menu is limited. To get there take a public bus or jeepney from Rizal Street in Legaspi and ask to get off near the Resthouse. You might have to walk the last few kilometres if the narrow road leading uphill to the guesthouse and PHIVOLCS is impassable. Having arrived at the foot of Mayon, you'll need to allow three days to make a comfortable ascent and descent. From PHIVOLCS, the trail creeps upwards through a tropical secondary forest, then cuts across a wilderness of razor-sharp talahib (grass) before turning sharply at approximately 1220m towards Buang Gully, a ravine formed by ancient molten lava flow. On the gully's floor are enormous depressions containing rainwater. At slightly above 1524m, Buang Gully branches out into two canals. This spot is ideal for a campsite since it is near enough to the summit, yet far enough away from the poisonous fumes that can blow down from the crater with a sudden shift in wind direction. Most climbers make camp here the first night and rise before dawn to continue the next morning, which is when the trail gets really hard. After scrambling over rocks and boulders, you reach a cliff system at 2195m. A forty-degree ascent on loose volcanic cinder and lava sand follows, before finally - the summit. You should reach the summit at around 11am, allowing time to descend to the same overnight camp before dark. On the third day, continue your descent to PHIVOLCS, where you must report your arrival. Most hotels in Legaspi will help you arrange a climb and put you in touch with local guides . Under no circumstances should you attempt the climb without a guide. If you feel it's worth it, you can hire porters for around P500 a day plus their food. Also, the tourist information office in Legaspi can set up a package for you for P3500 (for two climbers), as long as you notify them before 5pm the day before. The price includes jeepney transfers, tent, climbing ropes (needed for the uppermost slopes) and food. The best time of year to climb the volcano is from March to May.
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