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The Underground River , or to give it its proper name, St Paul's Subterranean Cave, is the sight most visitors to Palawan want to see. It's a little way out of Puerto Princesa - more than two hours north by road and another twenty minutes by banca - but it's well worth the trip. The cave meanders underground for more than 8km, making it the longest underground river in the world. It's full of a bewildering array of stalactites, stalagmites, caverns, chambers and pools. Your boatman will take a kerosene lamp to light the way, making the formations appear even more eerie because of the shadows that are cast. You pay a P150 fee at the Visitors Assistance Centre in Sabang to enter the cave, plus another P400-500 (for a group) for the boat. Look out in the area for the famous residents, large monitor lizards ( bayawak) that are tame enough to take food from your hand. All buses and jeepneys going north from Puerto Princesa pass through Sabang , which is the jumping-off point for the Underground River. You can also club together and hire your own jeepney for the three-hour trip (about P1000) and then catch a private banca or wait until 1pm for the daily resort boat which leaves from the pier. The other alternative is to take the air-con van (P250) that leaves Trattoria Inn every morning at 7.30am. Sabang Pier has beaches stretching either side of it. If you walk to the left you will come to Robert's Beach Cottages and Native Food Palace ($10-15), where you can stay and arrange trips to other parts of Palawan such as El Nido and Port Barton. Next are Coco Slab ($5-15) and Villa Sabang ($5-15), both with average nipa rooms and cottages. Ten minutes further, the beach ends at Mary's Cottages ($5-15. Panaguman Beach Resort ($10-15), 2km to the right of Sabang Pier, has three cottages and four rooms with shared shower and toilet.
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