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SAN FERNANDO , 50km north of Manila and the capital of Pampanga province, is best known for its controversial crucifixion of flagellants . Every year on Good Friday a dozen or so penitents - mostly men but with the occasional woman and sometimes even the odd foreigner - are taken to a rice field in the barrio of San Pedro Cutud, 3km from San Fernando, and nailed to a cross using two-inch stainless steel nails that have been soaked in alcohol to disinfect them. The penitents are taken down seconds later. Other penitents flagellate themselves using bamboo sticks tied to a rope. The blood is real, but the motivation is questionable. The Catholic Church does not approve of the crucifixions and does not endorse them. The media has also turned against the rites, calling them pagan and barbaric but generally admitting they are still a good show. Whatever your opinion, the crucifixions fascinate tourists and social voyeurs. Bus terminals in Manila are closed on Good Friday, so you'll have to travel to San Fernando the night before. Victory Liner buses leave every hour (P80) from Pasay . Make sure you don't confuse San Fernando in Pampanga with San Fernando in La Union, further north. Most buses travel up the North Luzon Expressway and exit at Paskuhan Vilage, a tourist village that sells native handicrafts. Paskuhan is also the site of the tourist office (tel 045/961 2665) and you can ask the bus driver to let you get off here. San Fernando proper is five minutes away by road and you can reach it by jeepney from Paskuhan (P15). Regular jeepneys connect San Fernando with its northern neighbours of Angeles (15min; P12.50) and Clark (25min; P22). There is a dearth of good places to stay in San Fernando. The best option is Pampanga Lodge (under $5), opposite the church, which has simple fan doubles. Most travellers, however, opt to spend the night in nearby Clark, where there's a much wider choice of rooms. San Fernando's main drag is lined with fast-food restaurants .
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