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The volcanic Sulu Islands are a group of about 870 islands off southwest Mindanao between the Sulawesi and Sulu seas. They cover an area of 2700 square kilometres and are home to a surprisingly large population of around twelve million. The capital is JOLO , on the island (the largest) of the same name. The area around Jolo has some unspoiled beaches and the town itself has a busy market where goods are brought (perhaps smuggled) from Malaysia and Indonesia. At the southern end of the peninsula lies the island of Tawi-Tawi, whose capital BONGAO is a commercial fishing centre and where rice and tubers are produced and coconuts exported. Bongao is slightly smaller than Jolo, but has a cinema, a lively market, banks and a provincial capital building shaped like a mosque. Tawi-Tawi was the seat of Islam in the Philippines, and the first mosque, the Sheik Makdum Mosque, was built here by Arab missionaries during the fourteenth century. From Bongao's harbour you can catch small boats to the tiny islands of Bilitan, Simunul and Manuk Mankaw. Among the most important cultural minorities in the area are the Badjao , who live on boats throughout the archipelago. There is continued strife between the various tribes that inhabit the islands and there have been kidnappings of foreigners in the area by Muslim militants. Piracy is also a problem. Up until the late 70s, the archipelago was out of bounds to tourists, but it is now possible to visit the islands. Remember, however, that Muslims in the area are still fighting for independence, and skirmishes and bombings still occur, so check with your embassy before you travel. There's a small airstrip at Bongao, but the only airline that uses it is Mindanao Express, which flies from Davao and Cebu, usually via Zamboanga and General Santos. Most of your travel through these islands will have to be by local banca or ferry . The M/V Mary Joy leaves Zamboanga every night arriving in Bongao the next morning. An increasing number of liveaboard dive boats are venturing into the area because of the excellent coral reefs.
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