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GENERAL SANTOS , southwest of Davao on Sarangani Bay, has the distinction of being the Philippines' southernmost city, which for many travellers means it's one bus journey too far. You can reach "Gensan" by air from Manila and Cebu or by bus on the Davao-Gensan Highway (3hr). It is possible to continue westwards by bus from General Santos to the isolated and beautiful Lake Sebu , in an area inhabited by the T'boli tribe. There is some reasonably good accommodation around Lake Sebu and it's a great place to see T'Boli culture at first hand. The best place to stay are the cottages at Lakeside Tourist Lodge (under $5) near the market. The Bao Ba-ay Village Inn ($10-15), five minutes' walk north from the marketplace, has marvellous lake views and cottages with balconies. The weekly Saturday market itself is worth the trip. You can buy brassware, tribal weavings and

other local handicrafts. The annual Lem-Lunay T'boli Festival is held every year on the second Friday of November and concludes with traditional horsefights. From Lake Sebu the road meanders west to Cotabato City , four hours away by Mintranco Bus, which you can catch from the Lake Sebu marketplace. Cotabato has been the scene of a number of recent bombings and kidnappings, so check the security situation with your embassy. Lake Sebu is usually as far as most tourists go along this road.

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