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In 1818, the province of Ilocos was divided into two and the city of LAOAG , two hours' drive north from Vigan, became the capital of Ilocos Norte. In more recent years, Ilocos Norte has become associated in most Filipino minds with former President Ferdinand Marcos. This was very much his patch, and his son, Bong-Bong, and daughter, Imee, both of whom have entered politics, are still popular in these parts. Marcos was born south of Laoag in Sarrat, while the family seat was 15km southeast of the city in Batac. There's little to see in Laoag itself, though it's worth making time for St William's Cathedral, on FR Castro Avenue, which dates back to 1650. Further east along FR Castro is Ermita Hill, which has nice views across Laoag and out to the South China Sea. It's a thirty-minute walk or you can take a jeepney from outside the cathedral. In BATAC , you can visit the Marcos Mansion, which is full of the dictator's old belongings; you can even see his refrigerated corpse, although many believe it's nothing more than a wax model. The impressive Batac Church, opposite the mansion, is where Imee was married with the kind of pomp and ceremony rarely seen outside royal families. A few kilometres southwest of Batac is the iconoclastic Paoay Chuch, built in a style known as "earthquake baroque", with immense side supports for its walls. The bus station in Laoag is at the eastern end of Primo Lazar Avenue at its junction with General Fidel Segundo Avenue. Jeepneys for Batac leave from Jose Rizal Street in Laoag. Laoag isn't a prime tourist destination and hotels are few and far between, but the new Hotel Tiffany (tel 077/770 3550; $10-15), on General Fidel Segundo Avenue, has small, clean doubles with private shower. The Texicano Hotel (tel 077/722 0290; $15-20), on Rizal Street, has bog-standard double rooms with air-con and cable TV. For wholesome Filipino food , Barrio Fiesta on Manuel Nolasco Street is good value. La Preciosa Restaurant on Rizal Street also does cheap native dishes - reckon on P80 per head.
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