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The capital of Mountain Province, BONTOC is the first major town in the north beyond Baguio. It lies on the banks of the Chico River, about an hour east of Sagada by jeepney. Jeepneys and buses arrive at the terminal opposite the town plaza, close to the market. Bontoc is primarily a commercial town used by tourists mainly as a rest-stop on the circuit to Banaue. It is, however, gaining a reputation as a good place for trekking ; contact the Bontoc Ecological Tour Guides Association at the Pines Kitchenette and Inn, behind the market in Rizal Plaza. Guides cost P300-500 for a day. Some of the local tribes can be nervous of foreigners and it would be unwise to confront them without a local guide to help smooth the way. One local tribe, the Kalingas, have been particularly wary of outsiders, and these days, while not outright unfriendly, are still rather standoffish. Don't miss the small but well-run Bontoc Museum (Mon-Sat 9.30am-noon & 1-5pm; P20), next to the post office, close to the town plaza. It contains photographs of headhunting victims and of zealous American missionaries trying to persuade incredulous warriors to choose the path of righteousness. Pines Kitchenette and Inn ( $5-15) is one of the few places to stay in Bontoc, with big doubles and private shower or cheaper rooms with shared facilities. Cheaper rooms are available at the Chico Terrace Inn & Restaurant (under $5) on the main street (the streets in Bontoc have no names) near its junction with the "hospital road".
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