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DEVGHAT (or Deoghat), 5km northwest of Narayanghat, is a lot of people's idea of a great place to die. An astonishingly tranquil spot, it stands where the wooded hills meet the shimmering plains, and the Trisuli and the Kali Gandaki merge to form the Narayani, one of the major tributaries of the Ganga (Ganges). Some say Sita, the heroine of the Ramayan, died here. The ashes of King Mahendra, the present king's father, were sprinkled at this sacred tribeni (a confluence of three rivers: wherever two rivers meet, a third, spiritual one is believed to join them), and scores of sunyasan, those who have renounced the world, patiently live out their last days here hoping to achieve an equally auspicious death and rebirth. Many have retired to Devghat to avoid being a burden to their children, to escape ungrateful children, or because they have no children to look after them in their old age and to perform the necessary rites when they die. Pujari (priests) also practise here - their professional signs are the only advertising you'll see - and often take in young candidates for the priesthood as resident students. Hourly buses shuttle between Narayanghat and Devghat, taking about half an hour, but it's quite pleasant to walk . Head north from the Pokhara bus park along the main highway to Mugling and after 1km turn left on a paved road under an arch - Devghat is at the end of the road, about 5km through forest. Either way, you come to the Trisuli and cross it by a footbridge (immortalized in the Nepali film Kanchhi, in which a heartbroken lover attempts suicide here), then bear left to the village. You can also cross the river further downstream by dugout canoe - for the return trip, the ferryman, if he thinks he can be spared from his duties, might consent to take you all the way back to Narayanghat for Rs50 or so. Dozens of small shrines lie dotted around the village, but you come here more for the atmosphere than the sights. Vaishnavas (followers of Vishnu) congregate at Devghat's largest and newest temple, the central shikra -style Harihar Mandir , founded in 1998 by the famed guru Shaktya Prakash Ananda of Haridwar. Shaivas (followers of Shiva) dominate the area overlooking the confluence at the western edge of the village. Galeshwar Ashram , on your right as you walk down the steps to the confluence, and Aghori Ashram , further downhill on the right, are named after two recently deceased holy men. A follower of the outrageous Aghori tradition, the one-armed Aghori Baba, who was often referred to as the "Crazy Baba", claimed to have cut off his own arm after being instructed to do so in a dream. Various paths lead upstream of the confluence, eventually arriving at Sita Gupha , a sacred cave that is closed except on Makar Sankranti, and Chakrabarti Mandir , a shady temple area housing a famous shaligram that locals say is growing. A huge pilgrimage is held at Devghat on Makar Sankranti (Jan 14 or 15), and Shiva Raatri, falling on the new moon of February-March, brings many Indian devotees. At other times, sadhus and pilgrims do puja at the point where the rivers meet - cremations are also held here - and old-timers meditate outside their huts in the sun. Be sensitive to the residents, and don't disturb them or touch anything that might be holy: many are orthodox Baahuns and your touch would be polluting. A couple of teahouses near the Trisuli bridge on the Devghat side can provide really bare-bones lodging , but frankly Devghat is the sort of place that visitors should leave in peace after the sun goes down. For a nearby base, try Lovely River Resort (tel 056/22699; Kathmandu: tel 425041), a peaceful riverside retreat reached by a separate access road from the main highway about 4km north (upstream) of the Devghat turning. The resort has standard rooms and deluxe tents, and charges a package rate of $55 per person per night, which includes all meals and various cultural activities.
is this article for $ tourists only?sam says "have a heart for locals"
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