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Heading northwest from the Pokhara Bazaar, the Baglung Highway provides the chief access for treks in the Annapurna region and rafting trips on the Kali Gandaki. Most people are only whizzing through on their way to their respective adventures, however, and other than a few mountain-bikers returning from Sarangkot, towns along the road see few foreign faces. It was a different story up until the mid-1980s, when this was the main trekking trail north from Pokhara. But as has happened elsewhere, the construction of a new highway has introduced enormous changes to the local social order, bringing wealth and prosperity to a few - mostly outside developers - and luring young people away to the cities. The Yamdi Khola valley has been transformed, not only by vehicles, but also by a hydroelectric project and a roadside smattering of modern concrete dwellings emanating like a comet's tail from Pokhara Bazaar. The old walking route has fallen into disuse, since trekkers and locals alike seldom walk when they can ride a bus. Bazaars like Naudaada and Kaare are considerably less busy than they were before the road - they've lost not only trekkers' business but also much of their former market in household provisions, since local residents can now easily do their shopping in Pokhara, previously a day or two's walk away
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