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BANDIPUR is a fantastically neglected little town on a ridge above Dumre that has history, architecture, incredible views, caves, countryside and more. Its downfall is that it has only the most spartan facilities - except in one upmarket tented camp, it's all cold water and daal bhaat here - although a few town boosters seem to be trying hard to change that. In any case, innkeepers seem genuinely keen to have foreign guests (even if they don't know quite what to do with them), and that makes Bandipur a potential base for exploring a beautiful, untouristed part of Nepal. If you happen to be coming from Narayanghat, you can catch the daily direct bus to Bandipur. From anywhere else, take any bus heading along the Prithvi Highway and get off at Dumre. The historic trail to Bandipur - immortalized in a poem by the late King Mahendra - starts 500m east of the main Dumre intersection and climbs through shady forest punctuated by very civilized rest shelters and waterspouts. The walk takes two to three hours, so it shouldn't be a problem getting there by dark. Alternatively, you could wait in Dumre for the bus from Narayanghat, which should pass through around 3 or 4pm. It may also be possible to hire a vehicle in Dumre. If travelling by bike , you'll take the initially paved (but not for long) road that starts 1km west of Dumre.
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