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Beyond Trisuli the road is unpaved, steep and agonizingly slow, buses taking four hours to cover this 40km stretch. You may prefer to close your eyes as the bus negotiates some of the switchbacks. Foreigners must show trekking permits at a couple of different army posts above Trisuli. The road has replaced what used to be the first two days of the Langtang trek, and DHUNCHE , an unmemorable administrative centre, has boomed since its completion. Dhunche's guest houses are clustered around the main drag just past the town gate and are all up to Rs140 (US$2) or Rs140-200 (US$2-3) en suite - Hotel Langtang View has a good restaurant and hot water. To return to Kathmandu, make sure to book your seat as early as possible the day before. Beyond Dhunche, the road angles down to cross the Trisuli River, then climbs continuously to cross a ridge at around 3700m before descending slightly to the lead- and zinc-mining centre of SOMDANG , 34km northwest of Dhunche. Incredibly, there's a small hotel there, Ganesh Himal Resort (en suite US$20-40), but you can't book ahead because it has no telephone, and you have to bring all your own food.
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