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A few kilometres upstream of Lamosangu, the highway proceeds up the larger of two tributaries, the Bhote Koshi , which it follows to its source in Tibet. BARHABISE , just beyond, is as far as most buses go; local buses and minibuses make sporadic runs from there to Tatopani, 23km further on. The highway and cross-border trade have turned Barhabise into an uncharismatic clutter of tall, slapdash buildings and shops selling mostly Chinese goods. However, it's still a traditional centre for the production of lokta paper, which is made from the bark of a type of shrub that's native to the hills above here; you can visit any of the local operations, which are easily recognized by their rows of frames tilted to dry in the sun. Several lodges in Barhabise let cold-water rooms and serve noodles and daal bhaat - New Chandeswori Guest House (Rs200-350 [US$3-5]) and Hotel Bhotekoshi (Rs140-200 [US$2-3]), at the north end of town, are perhaps a bit quieter than the rest. The permanent pavement ends north of Barhabise, as it's virtually impossible to maintain a permanent surface in the face of annual monsoon landslides . The Chinese who engineered this highway put it in the most unstable zone near the bottom of the valley, which made it easier to build but harder to maintain - to be fair, given the terrain between here and Tibet, they may not have had any other options. If you're entering or exiting Tibet along this route during the monsoon, there may be blockages where you'll have to transfer to another vehicle waiting on the other side. A few rafting companies run short but intense trips on this raging stretch of the Bhote Koshi. The put-in point is about 9km north of Barhabise, where Ultimate Descents has established the first traveller-friendly base in this part of Nepal, the Borderland Resort (Kathmandu: tel 425836; resort@tibet-border.wlink.com.np). Set at the bottom of the gorge at a relatively balmy 1100m, it's a very relaxing, social place with thatched-roof tents (on a four-person occupancy basis), an open-air dining pavilion and lovely gardens and lawns. It also functions as a sort of outdoor adventure centre, offering not only rafting but also mountain-biking , guided day hikes and overnight treks , and even canyoning in and around the waterfalls above camp. Packages including all activities and transportation from Kathmandu cost a flat $40 per person a day, or $25 for accommodation and food only. Borderland is likely to inspire competitors, and over time this area may develop into quite a little Mecca for outdoor sports. The steep gradient to the border begins just beyond; in the autumn, Nepal's famed honey-hunters may sometimes be seen clinging to the cliffs below the road in pursuit of hives. Afternoon rain is common up here, even in the dry season, and despite a general scarcity of trees near the river, everything is intensely green, with waterfalls splashing down cliff faces at every turn. As the road approaches Tatopani the scenery is interrupted by the spillway and dam for a second Chinese-built hydroelectric plant, which is the first in a planned series of diversions that will eventually put an end to rafting on the Bhote Koshi. Just before Tatopani is a police checkpost, where you'll be expected to show your passport: from here up, the Bhote Koshi forms the border - Tibet is just across the river
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