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Until the mid-1980s, TATOPANI (1530m) enjoyed a small following among Westerners, who came to gaze into forbidden Tibet and soak in the village's hot springs ( taato paani means "hot water"), but it's fallen out of fashion now that Tibet is open. It remains a quiet, relaxing place - probably too dull for most, but kind of nice if you're into offbeat locales. The village stretches along the highway for almost a kilometre, in two parts. Tamangs are in the majority at this altitude, and they maintain a small gompa five minutes' walk above the southern bazaar. The building is modest, but it looks out on a fine view of the valley and, up at the head of it, the start of the Tibetan plateau. The signposted hot springs are at the northern end of the village, down steps towards the river. A hot tub it's not: the water splashes out of pipes into a concrete pool and is used strictly for washing. If you take the waters, remember that nudity offends in Nepal. You'll be expected to make a small donation. Western menus have virtually disappeared from Tatopani, but a few lodges limp on from the good old days. Maiti Lodge (up to Rs140 [US$2]), near the hot springs, is probably the best. Hints of China's nearness are everywhere: you'll see chopsticks and Thermos flasks in every kitchen, and some places even sell Chinese beer. Buses to Kathmandu originate at Kodari and so are often full by the time they reach Tatopani. To be sure of a seat, buy a ticket at the Kodari booking office the day before.
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