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PANAUTI leads a sleepy, self-sufficient existence in its own small valley 7km south of Banepa. Probably the best-preserved Newar town after Bhaktapur, it supports a large number of traditional brick extended-family dwellings, an important riverside holy site and plenty of miscellaneous architectural treasures. In the past few years, a French-aided restoration effort has greatly improved conditions in the old town by covering sewers, rebricking lanes and rehabilitating historic structures. Although most travellers pass through Panauti only briefly on their way between Namo Buddha and Dhulikhel, accommodation is available, and it's an enchanting place to spend the night: wandering among the temples and bazaars by low-watt light is quite special. The most pleasant way of getting there is by bike, either from Lubhu, Banepa or Dhulikhel and Namo Buddha. The latter route is also feasible on foot. Another possibility is to walk from the summit of Phulchoki - you'll need a good topo map and the whole day. Minibuses to Panauti depart from Kathmandu's City Bus Park approximately hourly, calling at Bhaktapur and Banepa en route.
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