Hikes To Champadevi and Bhasmesur
Champadevi and Bhasmesur are high points on the prominent ridge that forms the southwestern rim of the Kathmandu Valley. Champadevi is easier to get to, Bhasmesur is higher. The views of the Himalaya from both knolls are excellent. Trails to Champadevi start from near Taudaha, Pikhel and Pharping. A hike up one and down another will take four to six hours, not including time spent at the top - bring plenty of food and water. The first trail begins where the road makes an abrupt bend beyond Taudaha, climbing steeply southwestwards to gain the ridge and then more gradually along it to the stupa-marked summit (2278m). From Pikhel, a dirt road heads north to the ridge, entering a splendid pine forest and passing the four-star Haatiban Resort, then tracks northwest to join the first trail. The Pharping route (best taken going down if you intend to get a seat on the bus) follows a dirt road up a valley south of the ridge as far as a small pond, where it veers northwards straight up to the ridge. Bhasmesur (2502m) is another hour's walk along the ridge, separated from Champadevi by a saddle. It can also be reached from Kirtipur: start by following the dirt road southwest from Naya Bazaar and then west to Machhegaun ("Fishville"), from where a trail switchbacks up to a saddle on the ridge just north of the summit. In Hindu myth, Bhasmesur was a demon who extracted a boon from Vishnu that everything he touched would turn to ash. Emboldened by his apparent invincibility, the demon proceeded to make a heavenly nuisance of himself until Vishnu, having taken the form of a fair maiden, seduced Bhasmesur into imitating a dance. Vishnu concluded the dance by touching his forehead, and Bhasmesur, following suit, incinerated himself. This mountain is reputed to be the pile of ashes left by the demon's demise.
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