The Stupa
According to Buddhist scriptures, the Kathmandu Valley was once a snake-infested lake (geologists agree about the lake). Ninety-one aeons ago, a perfect, radiant lotus flower appeared on the surface of the lake, which the gods proclaimed to be Swayambhu ("Self-created"), the abstract essence of Buddhahood. Manjushri, the bodhisattva of knowledge, drew his sword and cut a gorge at Chobar, south of Kathmandu, to drain the lake and allow humans to worship Swayambhu. As the water receded, the lotus settled on top of a hill and Manjushri established a shrine to it, before turning his attention to ridding the valley of snakes. The Kathmandu Valley harbours a powerful nag (snake spirit) cult. During the summer festival of Nag Panchami, emblems are placed above each doorway to appease the nag, who are able to release or withhold the life-giving monsoon rains. They're also considered the rightful owners of everything under the earth, which explains why the authorities are loath to allow archeological excavations. Upset a nag and you could bring on an earthquake - and establishing its first civilization. Another legend tells how, when Manjushri cut his hair at Swayambhu, the hairs that fell on the ground grew into trees, and the lice turned into monkeys. The apparently simple structure of the stupa belies an immensely complex physical representation of Buddhist cosmology, and the purpose of walking round it is to meditate on this. The solid, whitewashed dome symbolizes the womb or creation. Set in niches at the cardinal points, statues of dhyani (meditating) Buddhas correspond to the four elements (earth, air, fire and water) and a fifth, placed at an angle, to the sky or space. Like the rainbow colours produced by the refraction of pure white light, each represents a different aspect of Buddhahood: the hand positions, colours and "vehicles" (animal statues) of each are significant. The dhyani Buddhas are the same characters who appear on virtually every chaitya around the Kathmandu Valley. At each of the sub-cardinal points sit female counterparts , who in tantric Buddhism represent the wisdom aspect that must be united - figuratively speaking - with the compassionate male force to achieve enlightenment. The gilded cube surmounting the stupa surrounds a thick wooden pillar, which may be considered the phallic complement to the female dome. The eyes painted on it are those of the all-seeing Adi-Buddha (primordial Buddha), staring in all four directions. Between the eyes is a curl of hair ( urna), one of the identifying features of a Buddha, and the thing that looks like a nose is a miraculous light emanating from the urna (it can also be interpreted as the Nepali figure "one", conveying the unity of all things). A spire of gold disks stacked above the pillar represents the thirteen steps to enlightenment. The torana, or gold plaques above the painted eyes, also show the five dhyani Buddhas, known collectively as the panchabuddha. Finally, the umbrella at the top symbolizes the attainment of enlightenment: some say it contains a bowl filled with precious gems.
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