Tripureswar Sundari and Kalamochan Mandir
From Hanumansthan a path leads away from the river to Tripureswar Marg via the Tripureswar Sundari , a derelict quadrangle that has been squatted by a collective of low-caste families. The square's central temple, a massive three-tiered pagoda dedicated to Mahadev (Shiva), was erected in the early nineteenth century by Queen Lalit Tripura Sundari in memory of her husband Rana Bahadur Shah, who was assassinated in one of the period's many episodes of court intrigue. Continuing north on this path brings you back to the buzzing, sputtering crosstown traffic of Tripureswar Marg. To the southeast lies the marvellously hideous Kalamochan Mandir , a study in Rana excess and faded glory. Resembling a grotesque white wedding cake, it was completed in 1852 by the first of the Rana prime ministers, the ruthless Jang Bahadur, who is said to have buried the ashes of those killed in the Kot massacre in its foundation, mafia-style. The gargoyles snarling at its four corners are fitting testaments to his ambition.
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