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Beyond Kel Tol, the street is known mainly for its brass, copper and stainless steel wares: you'll see a bewildering array of incense holders, thaal (trays), water jugs, and vessels designed to hold water or cow's urine for puja. On the left, Tilang Ghar , a former Rana general's residence, is decorated with a stucco frieze of marching soldiers. The three-tiered octagonal Krishna Mandir just beyond is no longer active, and has been half obscured by the encroachments of surrounding buildings. The last and most exuberant intersection along this route is Asan Tol , historically Kathmandu's principal gathering point and hiring centre for labourers ( kuli in Nepali and Hindi - hence "coolie"). Until recently Asan was also the old city's main fruit and vegetable market, but authorities now bar such trade in an effort (often futile) to prevent gridlock. Produce is still sold in the streets leading east and north from here, while the trade in spices, homemade balls of soap, candles, oil, incense and other household wares has shifted to Kel Tol and Indrachowk. The gilt-roofed pagoda at the south side of the square is the temple of Annapurna , the goddess of grain and abundance, and a manifestation of Lakshmi, the popular goddess of wealth. A lavish little affair, the pagoda bristles with icons and imagery, and in festival seasons its roof is strung with electric bulbs like a Christmas tree. Annapurna is represented by a silver kalash, or vessel.
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