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A short walk east of Nardevi, Kilagal Tol is marked by a widening in the road with a handsome central chaitya and a bas relief of Bhairab. A small passage nearby leads to the large flagstoned piazza of Itum Bahal , a remarkable sanctuary from the noise of the modern city. Though many of the buildings surrounding the square have been modernized, the neighbourhood still has a villagey atmosphere, especially at harvest time when grain is spread out to dry. At the southern end of the square, a doorway surmounted by a weathered but still splendid torana leads to the fourteenth-century Kichandra Bahal. Bhedasingh , the next junction east of Kilagal, is the domain of fruit, vegetable and spice sellers, and a few potters who sell their wares from the steps of a squat Mahadev temple erected in memory of King Tribhuwan. The name Bhedasingh, which means "Sheep Horn", is a legacy of the days when livestock was traded here. From Bedasingh you can return to Durbar Square either via Indrachowk or by backtracking to Nardevi and heading south from there. The latter route soon re-enters atmospheric eighteenth-century neighbourhoods, with several large bahal dating back as far as the fourteenth century tucked away down dark alleys. Keep an eye out on the east side of the street for the Desha Maru Jhyal - literally, the "Country Nowhere Window" - a window grille of staggering complexity which, even in a country abounding in outstanding woodwork, is considered unique. Carved from a single block of wood, it obviously predates the house in which it's now set.
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