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Kathesimbhu , central Kathmandu's biggest stupa, stands in a square off to the left about 200m north of Bangemudha. The temple is only a modest replica of the more impressive Swayambhu stupa (its name is a contraction of "Kathmandu Swayambhu"), but for those too old or infirm to climb to Swayambhu, rites performed here earn the same merit. According to legend it was built from the earth left over after Swayambhu's construction; Lichhavi-era sculptures roundabout attest to the antiquity of the site, but the stupa itself probably dates to the seventeenth century. Like its namesake, Kathesimbhu has an associated shrine to Harati, the smallpox goddess, located in the northwestern corner of the square. The square doubles as the playground for a local school, so watch out during playtime. Traffic circulates around another stupa at Thahiti , the next square north on the way to Thamel. Because they're continually replastered, stupas never look very old and are hard to date, but this one probably goes back to the fifteenth century. One of Kathmandu's finest old bahal, the seventeenth-century Chusya Bahal stands about two blocks east of Thahiti. You'll recognize it by the two stone lions out in front and a meticulously carved wooden torana (decorative shield) above the doorway, both standard features of a bahal. The building is now privately owned and undergoing renovations, but if the door's open you can peek in from the threshhold. In the tourist zone north of Thahiti, old buildings are few and about the only sights are the goodies in the restaurant windows. The only temple of note in the Thamel vicinity is Bhagwan Bahal , a little-used pagoda that lends its name to an area north of Thamel Chowk (a sign in front calls it "Bikrama Sila Mahabihar"). A notable feature of this temple is the collection of kitchen pans and utensils nailed to the front wall, placed there as offerings to the deity.
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