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Undoubtedly the most impressive structure ever raised by the Ranas, Singha Durbar dominates the governmental quarter in the southeastern part of the city. Once the biggest building in Asia, the prime ministers' palace of four hundred rooms was built in 1901 by Chandra Shamsher Rana, who employed workers round the clock for two years to complete the pile and fill it with such European extravagances as Carrara marble floors, crystal chandeliers and gilt mirrors, all for the then unconscionable sum of Rs2.5 million. It's said that the entire population of Kathmandu abstained from daal, an ingredient in traditional mortar, during the construction. While it was in use as a palace, up to 1500 servants were required to keep the prime minister and his household in the style to which they were accustomed. The complex was mostly destroyed by fire in 1973, but has since been partially rebuilt. It's suprisingly accessible to the public. During visiting hours (Sun-Thurs 1-4.30pm, Fri 1-3.30pm; free) anyone can go through the sweeping front gate to have a look at the luxurious gardens and the gleaming white colonnaded main wing. (However, due to the threat of Maoist terrorism the government may in time enact stricter security procedures.) Numerous governmental ministries and departments are housed here and in crumbling old mansions nearby. If you're down this way, make a point of calling in at Baber Mahal Revisited , located off a tree-lined street that heads east 300m south of the Singha Durbar gate. Yet another former Rana Prime Minister's palace, it has been gorgeously restored into an exclusive shopping mall. It's a heavenly retreat from the noise outside, where you can grab lunch, window-shop, hang out in the courtyards, and check out before-and-after photographs of temple restorations around the valley.
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