Taxis, Tempos and Rikshas
Taxis are fairly cheap and are the most comfortable way to travel longer distances in Kathmandu and around the valley, though they don't work well in the crowded old city. A number of companies operate fleet taxis, which can be requested by phone (have your guest house make the call for you). Older freelance cabs tend to wait in designated areas, such as Tridevi Marg, the main Thamel intersection, at the top of Freak Street, along Dharma Path, and at the Jamal end of Durbar Marg. Both types have meters and drivers are supposed to use them, but will often try to quote a fixed price - for certain destinations, such as the airport and Central Immigration, they won't budge on this. For longer journeys, especially return journeys with some waiting time, it may be to your advantage to negotiate a fixed price. A surcharge is usually added after 8pm. Taxis start getting scarce around then, too - try the night taxi service (tel 224374). Metered tempos (also known as tuk-tuks or autorikshas) are slower, bumpier and less roomy than taxis, though their meter rates work out to be somewhat cheaper. Fixed-route tempos ply various routes throughout the city, generally following the main radial arteries. Get on where they start - many originate from two locations along Kantipath, near the National Theatre and just north of the GPO. On most routes there's a choice between fume-belching Vikram tempos and battery-powered Safaa ("clean") ones. The latter, which are proliferating thanks to a Danish grant, are one of the most tangible signs of development in Nepal, and they're also a more comfortable ride. Pedal rikshas are really only worthwhile for short distances on narrow, crowded streets (where you'll feel every bump). The price should be about the same as for a metered tempo, but the wallahs charge whatever they can, so establish terms before setting off.
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