Nepali and Newari
Most of the places listed here are geared for tour groups and tend to be on the expensive side, but worth it. At the other extreme are Kathmandu's many dirt-cheap bhojanalaya, which advertise themselves with a curtain (usually green) hung over the entrance and are impossible to recommend by name. If you go to one of the expensive places first, you can familiarize yourself with the offerings before taking on the (menuless) bhojanalaya. Most bhojanalaya are merely the Newar equivalents of a greasy spoon, but the best ones are fantastic. Ask your innkeeper for suggestions, or try the places north and east of Asan or along the lane from Asan to Chhetrapati. Many tourist restaurants advertise "special Nepali meals", which usually turn out to be rather ordinary daal bhaat. Bhanchha Ghar , Kamaladi (tel 225172). Nepali nouvelle cuisine, featuring such delicacies as wild boar, wild mushroom curry and buckwheat chapatis - truly wonderful. Expensive. Bhoe Chhen , off Durbar Marg in front of the Yak & Yeti. Varied and quite good Newari food in a small, traditionally decorated dining room. Moderately priced (but the set menu is expensive). Las Kus , in the Kathmandu Guest House, Thamel North. Does a set meal that provides a good introduction to Newari cuisine. Moderate. Naachghar , in the Hotel Yak & Yeti off Durbar Marg (tel 248999). Top-flight Nepali, Indian and Western cooking; set dinner in a palatial setting with nightly culture shows in season. Expensive. Nepalese Kitchen , Chhetrapati. A serviceable budget restaurant demonstrating that there's more to Nepali cuisine than daal bhaat. Outdoor seating, a fireplace and live music some evenings. Inexpensive. Thamel House , Thamel Northeast (tel 410388). A somewhat cheaper version of Bhanchha Ghar. Great ambience in a lovely old building. Moderate to expensive.
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