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From Taumadhi, the eastern segment of Bhaktapur's main artery snakes its way to the original and still-beating heart of the city, Tachapal Tol (or Dattatraya Square ). Here again a pair of temples looms over the square, older than those of Taumadhi if not as eye-catching. More notably, though, Tachapal conceals Nepal's most celebrated masterpiece of woodcarving, the Pujari Math's Peacock Window, and a superb woodcarving museum. You'll also find the finest woodwork studios in Nepal here, which are well worth a browse, even if you haven't got room in your rucksack for an eight-foot, Rs100,000 peacock-window reproduction. Just north of Tachapal, a second open space around Ganesh Pokhri is equally busy with pasal (shops) and street vendors. South of the square is also good for exploring, as Bhaktapur's medieval backstreets spill down the steep slope to the river like tributaries.
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