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Bhaktapur's Durbar Square hasn't got quite the same gusto as its namesakes in Kathmandu and Patan. Isolated near the old city's edge, it's neither a commercial nor a social focal point, and it has lacked a certain architectural harmony ever since the 1934 earthquake claimed several of its temples. Despite all that, it boasts one of Nepal's proudest artistic achievements - the Golden Gate - plus the National Art Gallery. The square enjoyed one brief, magnificent renaissance during the shooting of the 1995 film Little Buddha , when it was used as the location for many of the ancient flashback scenes. Director Bernardo Bertolucci transformed the area beyond recognition: high, simulated brick walls were erected to block modern sightlines, the palace front was extended with false balconies and columns, and the dead space in the middle was taken up with a raised water tank. Residents won't soon forget that Hollywood facelift - nor the handsome fees Bertolucci paid them for the use of their houses and shopfronts.
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