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South of the Hanumante, you can ramble up to the forested ridge overlooking Bhaktapur, where Surya Binayak makes a worthy target. This most pleasantly situated of the valley's four main Ganesh shrines - catching the valley's first rays of sun - is reached by a steep, kilometre-long paved road from the trolley bus terminus. The temple itself is just an ordinary plaster shikra, surrounded by usual Ganesh trappings; smeared with red sindur paste, the god's image looks like a warm fire in an ornate Victorian hearth. Ganesh is regarded as a divine trouble-shooter, and this particular image specializes in curing children who are slow to walk or speak. If you're on a bike, keep going: you can round the ridge either to the east or the west and noodle around a seldom-visited rural corner of the valley
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