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Once you've experienced Kathmandu, it should come as no surprise that the Kathmandu Valley is not the natural paradise it once was. It's the country's economic engine, after all, supporting numerous industries and with a smoggy capital city right in the middle of it. Yet this broad, undulating, fertile basin - so unlike the steep-sided hills that ring it - still displays a unique combination of natural and man-made beauty. Only a few miles outside the capital, traditional brick villages maintain their rural ways, and the countryside shimmers in an undulating patchwork of paddy fields - brown, golden or brilliant green, depending on the season. But above all, it's the valley's incredible wealth of art and architecture that overwhelms visitors, just as it did the early explorers: "The valley consists of as many temples as there are houses, and as many idols as there are men," gushed William Kirkpatrick, the first Englishman to reach Kathmandu, and generations of travellers since have accurately (if patronizingly) described it as a "living museum". Its geography is largely spiritual: most of its places are named after gods, and many were literally put on the map by ancient myths. The valley's one-time name, Nepal Mandala, recalls how for millennia its pilgrimage sites have together formed a kind of gigantic meditation tool. If most of these pages are devoted to temples and holy sites - there are no forts, you'll notice- it's because religion is the best and most fascinating window on Nepali culture. Until two hundred years ago, this protected bowl was Nepal (and for many hill people outside the valley, it still is). At that time, Kathmandu was only one of three major city-states constantly battling for dominance: Patan , just across the Bagmati River, controlled the southern part of the valley, while Bhaktapur ruled the east. These historical divisions are profoundly ingrained in valley society and live on in distinct religious practices, festivals and even dress. The valley can be divided into three sections, as much for practical reasons as historical ones, since roads and transport developed out of the old patterns of settlement. The sheer density of sights in the valley is phenomenal. Hindu holy places abound: the great pilgrimage complex of Pashupatinath , the sleeping Vishnu of Budhanilkantha , the sacrificial pit of Dakshin Kali and the hilltop temple of Changu Narayan are the most outstanding. If Buddhism is your main interest, head for the great stupa of Boudha , the centre of Tibetan Buddhist worship and study in Nepal, or the bahal of Patan , the valley's most Buddhist city. For medieval scenes, try Kirtipur , Bungmati or, best of all, Bhaktapur . For solitude and views, hike up Shivapuri , Jamacho , Phulchoki or any high point on the valley rim. All of the places described are within day-tripping range of Kathmandu, although in several cases you're urged to stay overnight. Some can be treated as stops along the longer, multi-day routes. Depending on where you're going, certain ways of getting around the valley are definitely better than others - making the wrong choice can kill an otherwise fun outing. A taxi is probably the way to go if you're aiming for a specific destination, especially if the journey there is along a main road. Negotiate for a return trip with ample waiting time if your destination isn't one of the main tourist sites. Buses and fixed-route tempos are obviously cheaper and bring you into (very) close contact with real Nepal, but they're slow and uncomfortable. There are also bus routes, and fares are usually just a few rupees. A bike or motorcycle is best if you're touring around the rural parts of the valley and you want maximum flexibility to stop and go. However, getting out of Kathmandu is not part of the fun, so if you're cycling, consider loading the bike in a taxi at least to get beyond the Ring Road. The Kathmandu city/valley maps sold in tourist areas will probably suffice for general sightseeing. For serious walking or biking, try to get your hands on the HMG/FINNIDA 1:25,000 sheets for the valley - Maps of Nepal, on Airport Road west of the Everest Hotel, is the main sales agent, but some Thamel bookshops also have them. Failing that, there are the excellent but dated Schneider map of the valley or other newer but rather inaccurate versions, such as the one published by Himalayan Map House.
The telephone code for the Kathmandu Valley is 01.
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