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Nepal Where To Eat



Where To Eat

Enterprising budget tourist restaurants in Kathmandu and Pokhara show an uncanny knack for sensing exactly what travellers want and simulating it with the most basic ingredients. Some specialize in Italian, German, Chinese, Tibetan, Indian, Mexican, Thai, Korean or even Japanese food, but the majority attempt to do a little of everything. Display cases full of extravagant cakes and pies are a standard come-on. There's no denying that the food is tasty - especially after a trek - but the scene has grown progressively more gross and surreal over the years, and quite a few travellers end up getting sick from the food in such places. And while they won't necessarily admit it, virtually all tourist restaurants rely heavily on monosodium glutamate as a flavour enhancer, which tends to make all tourist food taste the same, and of course can cause allergic reactions (if MSG gives you trouble, try asking for food without "tasting powder").

Tourist restaurants are notoriously hard to recommend, as chefs are forever jumping ship and taking their menus with them. And don't assume that a crowded place must have good food: tourists tend to judge restaurants by their ambience, and in any case the more diners there are, the slower the service will be. (That said, a popular restaurant's high turnover should ensure fresher ingredients.)

Local Nepali diners ( bhojanalaya) are traditionally humble affairs, offering a limited choice of dishes (or no choice at all). Menus don't exist, but the food will normally be on display or cooking in full view, so all you have to do is point. Utensils should be available on request, but if not, try doing as Nepalis do and eat with your hand - the right one only. In towns and cities, eateries tend to be dark, almost conspiratorial places, unmarked and hidden behind curtains. On the highways they're bustlingly public and spill outdoors in an effort to win business. Tarai cities always have a fancy (by Nepali standards) restaurant or two, patronized by businessmen and Indian tourists, and lots of dhaba (the Indian equivalent of bhojanalaya). Confusingly, restaurants are also often called "hotels".

It might take some time before you start appreciating the fine differences between bhojanalaya and other traditional establishments. Teahouses ( chiya pasal) really only sell tea and basic snacks, while the simple taverns ( bhatti) of the Kathmandu Valley and the western hills put the emphasis on alcoholic drinks, but also serve basic Nepali meals. Trailside, both chiya pasal and bhatti are typically modest operations run out of family kitchens. Sweet shops ( mithai pasal), found in bigger towns and identified by their shiny display cases, are intended to fill the gap between the traditional midmorning and early evening meals; besides sweets and tea, they also do savoury South Indian and Nepali snacks.

Street vendors sell fruit, nuts, roasted corn, fried bread and various fried specialities. When you're travelling, as often as not the food will come to you - at every bus stop, vendors will clamber aboard or hawk their wares through the window.

Vegetarians will feel at home in Nepal, since meat is considered a luxury. Imaginative preparations are rare, though: rice, lentils, vegetable curry and noodles are the standard offerings everywhere. As a rule, vegetarian dishes get more interesting and varied the closer you get to India, with some orthodox Hindu restaurants in border towns billing themselves as vegetarian-only. Tourist menus invariably include meatless items, which are often

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excellent.

Nepalis generally start the day with nothing more than a cup of tea, eat a full meal around mid-morning, then carry on until the second big meal of the day at dinnertime. The Western concept of breakfast doesn't tie in very well. Again, tourist restaurants have this covered - many do excellent set breakfast deals, with eggs, porridge, muesli and the like - but out in the sticks you'll have to adjust your eating schedule, or make do with a greasy omelette or packet noodles


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12/2/2008 9:33:15 PM