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The city's oldest, closest quarter lies to the south and east of the Janaki Mandir - making your way through this area, with its sweet shops, puja stalls and quick-photo studios, you begin to appreciate that Janakpur is as geared up for Indian tourists as Kathmandu is for Western ones. The main landmark here, the pagoda-style Ram Mandir , isn't wildly exciting except during festivals. Immediately to the east, Dhanush Sagar and Ganga Sagar are considered the holiest of Janakpur's ponds. The sight of Hindus performing ritual ablutions in the fog at sunrise here is profoundly moving, and during festivals the scene is on a par with Varanasi's famed ghats in India.
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