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Hindu women of the deeply conservative villages around Janakpur are rarely spared from their household duties, and, once married, are expected to remain veiled and silent before all males but their husbands. Fortunately, their rich tradition of folk art offers them an escape from this isolated existence. The non-profit Janakpur Women's Development Center (Sun-Thurs 10am-5pm/4pm in winter; free), 3km south of Janakpur provides a space for women from nearby villages to develop personally and artistically. Founded in 1989, with assistance from several international aid organizations, the artists' cooperative helps its fifty-odd members turn their skills into income - and the fact that some have gone on to start their own companies is a sure sign of the project's success. But more importantly, the centre empowers women through training in literacy and business skills, and support sessions in which they can share their feelings and discuss their roles in family and society. Initially specializing in Maithili paper art, the centre has since branched into other media and now has separate buildings for sewing, screen printing, ceramics and painting. Visitors are welcome to tour the beautiful, mango-shaded facility, and to meet the artists and learn about their work and traditions. A gift shop sells crafts made on the premises, as well as the JWDC's own booklet, Master Artists of Janakpur, a sensitive treatment not only of Maithili art but also of the women who make it here. The centre is a fifteen-minute bike or riksha ride from Janakpur. Head south towards the airport and make a left turn about 1km after Murali Chowk (look for the big painted arch and signs). Bear right after about 200m, passing through the well-kept village of Kuwa . The centre, in a walled compound, appears on the right after about 500m. If in doubt, ask for Nari Bikas Kendra. Or just have a riksha wallah take you - they all know the way.
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