Practicalities
Kathmandu-Kakarbhitta buses don't go through Biratnagar, but stop at Itahari , a crossroads bazaar on the Mahendra Highway; Biratnagar is 23km south, and Dharan lies to the north. Direct buses to Biratnagar let you off at the dismal bus park southwest of the city centre. The airport is 4km north of town (Rs150 by taxi). Biratnagar's finest accommodation is Hotel Xenial (tel 021/27303; xenial@ccsl.com.np; US$40-75 with AC), which has all air-con rooms, a small pool, business facilities and a terrific restaurant. Midrange options include Hotel Swagatam (tel 021/24450, fax 22299; en suite US$8-12 / US$12-20 with AC), which is clean and friendly but gets a lot of highway noise; Hotel Namaskar (tel 021/21199, fax 23499; en suite US$5-8 / US$12-20 with AC), in a better location but more run-down and with indifferent service; and Hotel Surai (tel 021/26178; en suite US$5-8), with dark rooms and a forlorn attempt at a garden. It would be nice to be able to recommend more of a choice at the budget end, but it just doesn't exist. Kathmandu Guest House (tel 021/21657; en suite Rs140-200 [US$2-3]) is the best, or at least the biggest, of several relatively cheap cold-water places grouped around the central intersection east of Mahendra Chowk. Dragon Guest House (tel 021/27129; en suite Rs200-350 [US$3-5]) might be worth considering because the management claims to supply hot water for washing by the bucket. Even if you're not staying there, Hotel Xenial 's restaurant is worth the riksha ride for its superb Indian food. The Swagatam and Namaskar also have good restaurants. For cheap local fare, make for one of the rough-and-ready eateries north of Mahendra Chowk, which do tasty sekuwa and maachhaa masaala (local carp fried in a spicy tomato sauce); try also dudhiya, the local aniseed-flavoured raksi. The main shopping street running north from the Namaskaar contains a couple of fine mithai pasal (sweet shops). Nepal Bank does foreign exchange (Sun-Thurs 10am-2pm, Fri 10am-noon), but you really have to hunt around for the right person. The better hotels will change money for their guests.
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