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Boats to and from Langkawi (hourly; 45min) dock at the little town of KUALA PERLIS , 45km north of Alor Setar, and although it's the second largest settlement in the state it only has two streets. Buses drop you next to the jetty, from where a wooden footbridge connects with the older, more interesting part of town, a ramshackle collection of buildings on stilts. While express buses to Padang Besar, Alor Setar and Butterworth are fairly frequent, there are a couple of hotels if you need to stay, the cheapest of which is the Asia, 18 Taman Sentosa (tel 04/985 5392; $5-10), a signposted right turn after a short five-minute walk, keeping the water on your left, right through town. There's also a restaurant downstairs.
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