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Amid the lofty peaks of Banjaran Titiwangsa, the various outposts of the CAMERON HIGHLANDS (1524m) form Malaysia's most extensive hill station, used as a weekend retreat since the 1920s and still - despite hotels and luxury apartments - quintessentially English in character, its rolling green fields dotted with country cottages, farms and a golf course. Weekenders flock here in their thousands to cool down and go walking in the hills and forests. The highlands encompass three small towns: Ringlet , site of the famous tea plantations; 13km beyond and 300m higher, Tanah Rata , the principal settlement of the highlands; and 5km further north, Brinchang , renowned for its farms. Tours of the whole region are organized by various hostels in Tanah Rata (3hr; RM15). Tanah Rata and Brinchang have the best accommodation, but prices shoot up at peak holiday times. Temperatures drop dramatically at night, so bring warm clothes. The Cameron Highlands trails take in some of the most spectacular scenery in Malaysia. They are often badly signposted and maintained, though you can get sketch maps at some shops and hostels in Tanah Rata. The best is the black-and-white sketch map ($1), though some of its trails no longer exist. If you want to attempt any unofficial routes, you must go with a guide from the tourist office and you must get a permit from the District Office, just north of Tanah Rata (Mon-Fri 8a-1pm & 3p-4.30pm, tel 05/491 1105). To get there, go north towards Brinchang, and take the first major right after about 1km. Always inform someone, preferably at your hotel, where you are going and what time you expect to be back. On longer trips take warm clothing, water, a torch and a cigarette lighter or matches for basic survival should you get lost. If someone else doesn't return as expected, inform the District Office
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