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PULAU SIBU is the most popular - if the least scenic - of the islands after Tioman, though the huge monitor lizards and the butterflies here make up for the lack of mountains and jungle. Like the rest of the islands, Sibu boasts fine beaches, though the sand is yellower and the current more turbulent than some. Shaped like a bone, the island's narrow waist can be crossed in only a few minutes, revealing a double bay known as Twin Beach. Many of the coves have good offshore coral. Most of the resorts on Sibu operate their own boats from Tanjung Leman , a tiny village about 30km down the coast from Mersing and an hour's boat ride from the island. It's not an established route, so you must ask the resort in advance to pick you up. O&H "s boat runs the one-hour journey to and from Tanjung Leman daily (RM16). Halfway along the eastern coast, O&H Kampung Huts (tel 011/354 322; $5-20) is the best place to stay on the island if you're on a budget, a friendly and relaxed set-up of A-frames and chalets. Nearby, the Sea Gypsy Village Resort (tel 07/222 8642; $40-60) is much more exclusive, aiming for the diving market, with all-inclusive packages costing around US$100 per night for two people. Over the small ridge in the centre of the island is Twin Beach Resort (tel 03/948 8966; $15-20), the only place with sunrise and sunset viewing; its A-frames and pricier chalets are rundown, but you can also camp here. Eating on Pulau Sibu is a pleasure. O&H has excellent fish and chicken curries with rice, vegetables and salad, as well as Western options, at around RM15 for a full meal. Sea Gypsy also offers great cuisine, but for resort guests only. The restaurant at Twin Beach specializes in reasonably priced Chinese food.
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