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SONG is an hour up the river from Kanowit, at the head of one of the Rajang's major tributaries, Sungei Katibas, which winds and narrows as it runs south towards the mountainous border region with Kalimantan. The place is little more than a few blocks of waterfront shop-houses, a jetty, a small Chinese temple and two waterfront hotels: the Capital Hotel (tel 084/777252; $5-10) and the much smarter Katibas Inn (tel 084/777323; $5-10). On the riverside are the usual Chinese stores, plus several coffee shops. To explore Sungei Katibas , you need to catch the passenger longboat which leaves Song twice each morning; departure times change so ask at the jetty. On the Katibas are several Iban longhouses worth visiting, including the large community at the junction of the Katibas and one of its own small tributaries, Sungei Bangkit. It takes between two and three hours to reach Nanga Bangkit , which comprises an impressive fifty-door longhouse and a dozen smaller dwellings on the opposite bank. It's best to get the earliest boat you can to give yourself time to meet people and maximize your chances of getting invited to stay overnight. If no offers are forthcoming you should be in time to get the longboat back to Song. The longhouse women are excellent weavers, and you can buy a wall hanging here for around RM300, which sounds a lot, but you won't be able to find these ikat weavings anywhere else.
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