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KAPIT , around three hours east of Sibu by express boat, is a fast-growing timber town with a frontier atmosphere, where karaoke lounges, snooker halls and brothels are all much in evidence. Although most travellers stay just one night, waiting for boats along the Rajang or for connecting longboats along Sungei Baleh, there are lots of good cafes and a decent museum, and this is also a good place to organize trips to local Iban communities with one of the tour operators based in town. Close to the jetty is Kapit's main landmark, Fort Sylvia . It was built in 1880 in an attempt to prevent the warring Iban attacking smaller groups such as the upriver Ukit and Bukitan. Kapit's main square, simply called Kapit Square , is surrounded by shops selling everything from noodles to rope. The walk west along Jalan Temenggong, which forms the square's northern edge, leads to the day market. Back from the jetty, near the pond, the Civic Museum (Mon-Fri 2-4.30pm; free) has a collection of interesting exhibits on the tribes in the Rajang basin, including a well-constructed longhouse and a mural painted by local Iban. Express boats dock at the town jetty, close to the town centre. There is no information office in Kapit, but you can get leaflets on tours and surrounding attractions from Tan Teck Chuan, whose office is at 11 Jl Sit Leong. The Maybank , beside the Hotel Meligai, changes travellers' cheques. Internet access is available in the town library on Jalan Selinik (Mon-Fri 9am-4.30pm, Sat 9am-12.30pm, Sun closed). You need a permit (free of charge) to travel beyond Kapit , available from the Resident's Office (Mon-Fri 8am-12.30pm & 2.15-4.15pm), on the first floor of the State Government Complex which is 100m north of the jetty on Jalan Selinik. You'll need to take your passport with you.
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